Do we have a house maintenance type thread? (HVAC advice needed)

[Fatrat]

Mid Florida and I'm thinking about replacing Heat Pump/ electric furnance before it goes out.16 SEER or 20 SEER.

 

[searcher]

Any HVAC / Plumbers on board?

 

[Viking]

Definitely.

 

[nickndfl]

Did you clean it? What is the problem?

 

[Goldhedge]

GROK

Choosing between a 16 SEER and a 20 SEER air conditioner depends on your budget, climate, usage, and long-term goals. Here's a concise comparison:
16 SEER AC:

• Efficiency: Moderately efficient. SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) of 16 means it uses less energy than older units (e.g., 10-13 SEER) but more than higher-rated ones.
• Cost: Lower upfront cost, typically $3,500–$6,000 installed, depending on size and brand.
• Savings: Decent energy savings, especially in milder climates or with moderate use. Savings diminish in very hot, long cooling seasons.
• Best for: Budget-conscious homeowners, milder climates, or homes with shorter cooling seasons (e.g., 3–4 months).

20 SEER AC:

• Efficiency: Highly efficient. Uses ~20% less energy than a 16 SEER unit, reducing electric bills significantly.
• Cost: Higher upfront cost, typically $5,000–$10,000 installed, due to advanced features like variable-speed compressors.
• Savings: Greater long-term savings, especially in hot climates (e.g., Southwest U.S.) or with heavy use (5+ months). Payback period may be 5–10 years, depending on electricity rates (~$0.15–$0.30/kWh).
• Best for: Hot climates, heavy AC use, or homeowners planning to stay long-term (10+ years).

Key Considerations:

• Climate: In hot, humid areas (e.g., Florida, Texas), 20 SEER shines. In cooler regions (e.g., Northeast), 16 SEER is often sufficient.
• Electricity Rates: Higher rates favor 20 SEER for faster payback.
• Rebates: Check local utility or federal rebates (e.g., ENERGY STAR models). These can offset 20 SEER’s higher cost.
• Features: 20 SEER units often have better comfort (variable-speed, quieter, better humidity control) vs. 16 SEER’s single- or two-stage systems.
• Lifespan: Both last 15–20 years with maintenance, but 20 SEER’s advanced tech may require costlier repairs.

Example Math (4-ton unit, 1,200 hrs/year, $0.20/kWh):

• 16 SEER: ~3,000 kWh/year = $600/year.
• 20 SEER: ~2,400 kWh/year = $480/year.
• Savings: $120/year. At $3,000 extra upfront for 20 SEER, payback = ~25 years (faster with rebates or higher rates).

Recommendation:

• Choose 16 SEER if you’re in a mild climate, have a tight budget, or plan to move soon.
• Choose 20 SEER for hot climates, high usage, or if comfort and long-term savings are priorities.

If you share your location, AC size (tons), or electricity rate, I can refine the analysis. Want me to check rebates or analyze a specific scenario?

Mid-Florida
In Mid-Florida (e.g., Orlando, Tampa, or similar areas), the hot and humid climate makes the choice between a 16 SEER and 20 SEER AC significant. Here’s a tailored breakdown:
Climate Context:

• Mid-Florida has long, hot cooling seasons (~6–8 months, 1,500–2,000 cooling hours/year).
• Average summer temps: 80–95°F with high humidity.
• Electricity rates: ~$0.14–$0.18/kWh (based on Florida Power & Light or Duke Energy rates in 2025).

16 SEER AC:

• Efficiency: Good, but less optimal for Florida’s intense heat. Uses ~25% more energy than 20 SEER.
• Cost: $3,500–$6,000 installed (4-ton unit, typical for 2,000 sq ft home).
• Savings: Moderate. For 1,800 cooling hours/year at $0.16/kWh, expect ~$720/year (4-ton unit, ~4,500 kWh).
• Pros: Lower upfront cost, sufficient for smaller homes or moderate use.
• Cons: Higher bills in Florida’s climate; single- or two-stage systems may struggle with humidity control.

20 SEER AC:

• Efficiency: Excellent for Florida. Uses ~3,600 kWh/year for same use case, costing ~$576/year.
• Cost: $5,000–$10,000 installed. Premium for variable-speed compressors and better humidity control.
• Savings: Saves ~$144/year vs. 16 SEER. If 20 SEER costs $3,000 more upfront, payback is ~21 years (faster with rebates or higher rates).
• Pros: Better comfort (quieter, consistent temps, superior humidity control), ideal for Florida’s muggy conditions.
• Cons: Higher initial cost, pricier repairs.

Florida-Specific Factors:

• Humidity: 20 SEER units often have advanced dehumidification, critical for comfort and preventing mold in Florida.
• Rebates: Check Florida utilities (e.g., FPL, Duke Energy) or federal ENERGY STAR rebates. Some offer $100–$500 for high-SEER units, reducing 20 SEER’s cost.
• Usage: Mid-Florida’s long cooling season favors 20 SEER for long-term savings, especially if you stay 10+ years.
• Resale Value: Higher SEER can boost home value in Florida’s AC-dependent market.

Recommendation:

• 20 SEER is better for Mid-Florida if you plan to stay 7+ years, prioritize comfort, or want max savings. The humidity control and lower bills justify the cost in this climate.
• 16 SEER is fine if you’re budget-constrained, moving soon, or have a smaller home with less AC demand.

Example (4-ton, 1,800 hrs/year, $0.16/kWh):

• 16 SEER: ~4,500 kWh = $720/year.
• 20 SEER: ~3,600 kWh = $576/year.
• Savings: $144/year. Payback on $3,000 extra cost = ~21 years (less with rebates).

Want me to check specific rebates for your utility (e.g., FPL, Duke) or analyze for your home’s size/usage? Provide your city or AC tonnage for a more precise breakdown.

 

[Fatrat]

Yeah, 20 seer sounds right...thanks

 

[nickndfl]

Skip the variable speed motors. The boards fail. Also stick with Rheen or Carrier.

 

[Cigarlover]

Get rid of the AC. Get a 16" fan. Real feel was 105 here today and my fan kept me comfortable.

 

[Viking]

Mid Florida and I'm thinking about replacing Heat Pump/ electric furnance before it goes out.16 SEER or 20 SEER.

Could just keep existing system and add some mini-splits. Cheap and they are efficient. Then you have the older system as back-up.

 

[Fatrat]

Did you clean it? What is the problem?

Age, I replaced the fan but the unit is almost 20 and I rather do it at my convenience not when it quits.

 

[nickndfl]

Any new components you get will be lower quality than what you have with less wear. I would.replace the whole system when it dies.

 

[Voodoo]

I've seen lots of issues with new Coolants. The government keeps sticking their nose in it and mandating shittier fluids. Check to see what fluid it uses.

 

[nickndfl]

I replaced 4 central ac units, 3 refrigerators and 4 water heaters in the last 3 years among 4 properties. You should have a back up 5k window ac unit for emergencies. You will know when your ac needs replacing when the FPL bills starts going north and the humidity doesn't get removed like it used to.

The big problem I have with my home ac is that the drain line scums up and clogs if I don't use the blue pellets and blow it out every other. I never had that at my last house and the oceanside units only need annual maintenance. I think the plumber who set up the pipe in the slab was not much of a plumber plus Trane ac units are notorious for slime.

The refrigerator problems are from not plugging them into a $10 surge protector. The water heater problem is A.O. Smith is Chinese garbage.

I had the best luck with Samsung for all new regular appliances. Stick with Rheem or Carrier for the rest. Personally, I would go with a tankless water heater for my next home. Tanked water heaters are designed to fail now.

 

[Voodoo]

Sorry got to disagree... Samsung appliances are not good. The more electronics and less water are better. I also would not go tankless now. They are huge drags on the bill and unless it was intermittent use the lower and more steady demand is better.