WORKIN' MAN

[BackwardsEngineer]

Sealing a South Carolina Crawlspace

Ted Cushman visits with a crew installing a vapor barrier and perimeter insulation for a conditioned crawlspace.

www.jlconline.com

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Foundations
On the Job
Sealing a South Carolina Crawlspace
By Ted Cushman
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Traditionally, crawlspaces have been equipped with vents to allow fresh air exchange between the underfloor space and the outdoors, and floor systems were insulated with fiberglass batt insulation in the joist cavities. But in hot, humid, and mixed climate zones, the building-science justification for that approach has never been solid, and these days, the state-of-the-art solution is a sealed, conditioned crawlspace, with a vapor barrier protecting the underfloor space from ground moisture, and with the insulated thermal boundary moved from the framed floor to the wall perimeter. Codes have evolved in recent years to allow this approach, and the latest codes include prescriptive details for the ground vapor barrier, wall insulation, and conditioning system.


In the hot, muggy climate of South Carolina, a conditioned crawlspace is particularly advantageous. Even in dry Northern climates, ventilation is only marginally effective at removing ground moisture from an under-floor crawlspace; in the humid South, crawlspace ventilation openings that connect to the outdoor air often make things worse. So insulating and sealing the crawlspace has become standard practice in the low-country market near Charleston, South Carolina, and Savannah, Georgia.

With offices in Hilton Head and Charleston, S.C.,specialty contractor Energy One has created thousands of sealed crawlspaces over the past ten years, in both new and existing homes. We followed along as the crew installed and sealed the ground-cover vapor barrier under a new house, then applied poly-faced rolls of fiberglass insulation to the perimeter walls.

This house is located in the AE flood zone along the Wando River in the Charleston neighborhood of Daniel Island. So the crawlspace is required to have flood vents to relieve the pressure of high water in case of a flood—which complicates the air-sealing problem. In this case, Energy One was only contracted to install the ground cover and wall insulation; the builder's crew installed “Sealed Series” Flood Flaps.

However, Energy One planned to return as soon as the doors and vents were in place and a dehumidifier was installed. That's because in the damp South Carolina climate, mildew had already started to grow on the surface of the building's floor framing. As soon as the humidity in the space is controllable, Energy One will be back to scrub the floor framing with a sanitizing cleanser. Energy One also sells a long-term mold-inhibiting surface treatment, but in this case, the builder has opted for cleaning only. Once the crawlspace is sealed against vapor and air intrusion, mildew probably won't return unless the dehumidifier fails. To keep tabs on that risk, Energy One will install a humidity sensor alarm in the space.

About the Author
Ted Cushman
Ted Cushman
Contributing editor Ted Cushman reports on the construction industry from Hartland, Vt.

Misty,
You picked one from my backyard.. Know the people and the company, I tell clients they are really good, get two other quotes add them together and that will be EO's price.. Crawlspace damage is big business here, along with anchoring and reestablishing footers and pilings. Entire neighborhoods are known hotspots for damage often exceeding 25% of homes overall value. So most new builds are slabs, that have there own issues but at least no mold, snakes or critters!

But it raises a really great reminder of how important long history of local flavor is to construction. Every area has its quirks and obstacles, ignore and your life will be harder and wallet lighter. As an example there is an old time well digger here, you call him on the phone if he answers his first question is what's your address? He knows from the combined experience between generations pretty much which machine to bring and prepares the clients ahead if its going to hurt. Not that he's always right, but he's usually not far off... So watching Taezzers build it wouldn't work well at here without modification or ours vice versa. He wouldn't dream of spending on hurricane windows, custom homes here sometimes hit 200k on windows alone or ss cable tie downs to hold it together in a storm..

 

[Newmisty]

Misty,
You picked one from my backyard.. Know the people and the company, I tell clients they are really good, get two other quotes add them together and that will be EO's price.. Crawlspace damage is big business here, along with anchoring and reestablishing footers and pilings. Entire neighborhoods are known hotspots for damage often exceeding 25% of homes overall value. So most new builds are slabs, that have there own issues but at least no mold, snakes or critters!

But it raises a really great reminder of how important long history of local flavor is to construction. Every area has its quirks and obstacles, ignore and your life will be harder and wallet lighter. As an example there is an old time well digger here, you call him on the phone if he answers his first question is what's your address? He knows from the combined experience between generations pretty much which machine to bring and prepares the clients ahead if its going to hurt. Not that he's always right, but he's usually not far off... So watching Taezzers build it wouldn't work well at here without modification or ours vice versa. He wouldn't dream of spending on hurricane windows, custom homes here sometimes hit 200k on windows alone or ss cable tie downs to hold it together in a storm..

Great post

 

[Newmisty]

https://www.jlconline.com/jlc-workbooks/radiant-hydronic-heating-workbook/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=Article&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=JLC_012923&

 

[Newmisty]

https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/insulation/air-sealing-an-ice-prone-home_o?utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=Article&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=JLC_012923&

 

[BackwardsEngineer]

Good stuff misty, that is the point.. all things I didn't know I needed to know. It boils down to spending money during the build on structure and function rather than fluff and feel goods... Amazing the headaches that can be avoided by good design and anticipation rather than cabinets and counter tops

 

[Newmisty]

Good stuff misty, that is the point.. all things I didn't know I needed to know. It boils down to not spending money during the build to on structure and function rather than fluff and feel goods... Amazing the headaches that can be avoided by good design and anticipation rather than cabinets and counter tops

Function over form

 

[CiscoKid]

She lasted 17 years but today, while quickly packing up as the rain came, I busted out the back window pulling off a 2x6 I was using for a plank. Feck.

View attachment 6177

My wife did that to a Dodge Ram I owned. She was loading 2x4's and got carried away and sent one right through the rear window. Five years later, I was still finding little pebbles of safety glass in the back seat area.

Pic of the old Dodge. 24 valve HO Cummins. Wish I still owned her, but a kid fell asleep at the wheel and t-boned her in an intersection.

 

[Ttazzman]

My wife did that to a Dodge Ram I owned. She was loading 2x4's and got carried away and sent one right through the rear window. Five years later, I was still finding little pebbles of safety glass in the back seat area.

Pic of the old Dodge. 24 valve HO Cummins. Wish I still owned her, but a kid fell asleep at the wheel and t-boned her in an intersection.

View attachment 6458

i just got a little bit excited and lustful with your hay trailer sir (oops correction wagon)

 

[CiscoKid]

i just got a little bit excited and lustful with your hay trailer sir (oops correction wagon)

I have a small 16 footer that I am thinking of restoring. The deck needs some work. I got under it and there is a metal plate on the frame. Says it was sold by Sears back in the day. I didn't know they used to sell hay wagons. Ran the serial number and it was made and sold back in the mid-'50's. Tires are bad too, but I know a guy who can get me all the used tires I want.

 

[Newmisty]

I have a small 16 footer that I am thinking of restoring. The deck needs some work. I got under it and there is a metal plate on the frame. Says it was sold by Sears back in the day. I didn't know they used to sell hay wagons. Ran the serial number and it was made and sold back in the mid-'50's. Tires are bad too, but I know a guy who can get me all the used tires I want.

So you'll sell the large wagon to Tazz for $900 and a silver eagle? Deal! (Bit of an inside joke)

 

[Ttazzman]

So you'll sell the large wagon to Tazz for $900 and a silver eagle? Deal! (Bit of an inside joke)

For that wagon I would trade a old gold eagle ...but he would have to deliver it...lol

 

[Newmisty]

WTF over?

 

[Newmisty]

A Builder's Guide to Wood Rot​

Rot is the ultimate failure for a wood-framed house.​

By Clayton DeKorne
DOWNLOAD THE PDF VERSION OF THIS ARTICLE. (3.35 MB)
Wood rot is caused by several kinds of fungi, but not all fungus that lives on wood causes rot. Mold, for example, is one type of fungus that can live on the surface of wood, and should be dealt with when present (see “Mold on Lumber,” below), but has no effect on the strength of the wood.

Nate AdamsNot rot. Mold is undesirable on wood surfaces in a home for a number of reasons, but it does not affect the structural characteristics of wood.

Steve EasleyNot rot or mold. Blue stain is caused by a fungus that lives in the sapwood of trees. It causes bluish or grayish discoloration of the wood but does not cause decay, and the stain has no effect on the strength of the wood.
Similarly, blue stain is caused by microscopic fungi that commonly infect the sapwood of living trees; the fungi remain in the wood when the tree is milled into lumber but cause no loss in strength. Decay fungi, on the other hand, break down the cellular structure of wood, which does cause a loss of strength.

The Mechanics of Rot​

There are a number of different types of decay fungi, all of which rot wood by secreting enzymes or producing chemical reactions that break down the wood's cell walls. Decay becomes apparent when the wood changes color, becoming either darker or lighter than surrounding wood. As decay advances, the wood develops checks and cracks in the discolored area and becomes obviously softer or more brittle than solid wood.
Rot fungi are living organisms that need four things to survive. If wood is rotting, you can stop the rot process by eliminating one of these four things:

• food (wood);
• favorable temperatures (above 45°F to around 100°F); There is little or no growth below 50°F.
• oxygen;
• water.

The latter condition is usually the most important for buildings: The best way to combat rot is to keep the wood dry. New wood needs to be at around 28% moisture content before decay fungus can grab hold and start growing. That's very wet, close to saturation in most woods, but it doesn't mean the whole board needs to be completely soaked. A board that remains wet on one side and is continuously exposed to a high moisture content can begin to rot. As the rot advances and breaks down the wet side of the board, more of the board will be exposed to that high moisture content, and eventually it will rot through.
Wood that has begun to rot but is still solid can be salvaged, however. Wood that has started to rot will stabilize once it has dried. The fungus goes dormant below a moisture content of about 22%, and as long as the moisture content is maintained below this level, the wood will not continue to rot. But decay fungus can reactivate and begin growing when the moisture content again rises above 22%.

Isaias Antonio-SantosBoth white and brown rot can grow in the same piece of wood - in this case, the sheathing around a poorly flashed cupola.

Types of Rot​

In general terms, the two most common types of wood-eating fungus in North America are "white rot" and "cubic brown rot." White rot eats the lignin, leaving the cellulose and covering the wood surface with a white mat of fungal fibers. Cubic brown rot eats the cellulose component of wood, leaving the darker brown lignin component, which shrinks into characteristic blocky formations.
Rot is known by a lot of names, not all of which necessarily correspond to a specific fungus species. These are some of the common terms:

Kyle Diamond"Dry rot." Rotten wood is often found in a dry condition and so is called "dry rot." But the wood had to have once been wet for the decay to occur. In this case - an old wood gutter - the wood had ample opportunity to get wet. (For details on how this gutter was replaced with respectful consideration to the original building details as well as long-term future performance, see "Replacing a Wooden Gutter.")
Dry rot is a term loosely applied to any dry, crumbly rot, and especially when, in an advanced stage, the rot can be crushed easily to a dry powder. The term is a misnomer for any rot-induced decay, though, since all fungi require considerable moisture for growth.
Heart rot is any rot confined to the heartwood. This type of rot, specific to certain species of fungi, generally originates in the living tree and rarely makes its way to the jobsite. However, it's not uncommon to discover boards in the lumberyard that slipped through the grading process with rotten hearts.
Soft rot is a special type of decay developing under very wet conditions in the outer wood layers. It is caused by cellulose-destroying microfungi that attack the secondary cell walls and not the intercellular layer. This sort of rot is found in old commercial cooling towers and in boat timbers at the water line - where, despite the nearly submerged conditions, the fungi still have access to oxygen, a necessary ingredient. Soft rot, however, is not possible in trees that have been submerged completely in rivers or swamps and then are brought up, dried, and milled into usable lumber. Under such fully submerged conditions, fungi spores are not able to develop without oxygen and the wood, though soaked, is preserved. Sometimes, anaerobic bacteria help the preservation by breaking down some of the gummier parts of the tree, creating a wood that is actually stronger than the tree might have been if harvested on dry land in the first place.


Continued in next post...

 

[Newmisty]

Zone-line decay, a.k.a. spalted wood, can be used for trim work as long as the wood is firm and doesn't have pockets that are punky.Bernhard HofmannZone-line decay, a.k.a. spalted wood, can be used for trim work as long as the wood is firm and doesn't have pockets that are punky.
Spalting is caused by certain types of white-rot fungi growing in wood (primarily hardwoods such as maple, birch, and beech). The fungi create “zone lines” in the wood where territories of competing fungi meet (see photo at right). Though usually used for decorative woodwork and furniture (live-edge tables and shelves are currently in vogue), spalted wood is occasionally used for interior trim, as well. According to the Forest Products Laboratory, once the wood is harvested, the fungi die and remain in stasis without further growth or compromise to the wood. (It is also possible to actually induce spalting in harvested wood; see the Forest Products Laboratory's technical bulletin "Producing Spalted Wood.")

Not all deteriorated wood is caused by rot, though. Termite damage often looks exactly like "dry rot." And in many cases, the scent of rot may be what drew the termites. But termites usually are a lot quicker than fungi at destroying the structural integrity of a wood structure.

Things are not always what they seem. Water seeping through brick got things started here, and you can see where the fibrous mat of white rot lingers on the surface of this rim joist. But the ultimate destruction of this framing came from termites. Termites primarily search for food by the scent of wet, rotten wood, so the onset of rot certainly contributed to this structure's demise.Robert MignognaThings are not always what they seem. Water seeping through brick got things started here, and you can see where the fibrous mat of white rot lingers on the surface of this rim joist. But the ultimate destruction of this framing came from termites. Termites primarily search for food by the scent of wet, rotten wood, so the onset of rot certainly contributed to this structure's demise.
Incipient vs. Advanced Decay
Early stage decay that has not advanced far enough to soften or otherwise impair the hardness of wood is known as incipient decay. It is usually accompanied by a slight discoloration of the wood, and the big question that carpenters often face when working on existing structures is whether it is OK to build onto slightly decayed framing. As long as the wood is solid and is kept dry, wood that is slightly discolored by decay fungus is OK to leave in place. Before sistering new framing to the old wood, treat the existing lumber with liberal doses of a copper-based wood preservative, such as QNap, or spray with a borate-based preservative, such as Bora-Care.

Wood in an advanced stage of decay, in which the attack has caused the wood fibers to become friable or has split the wood into sections, is essentially worthless. As much of this destroyed wood as possible should be replaced.

.

No question. In cases of advanced decay, as on this cupola , there is little question that the rotted structure needs to be completely replaced with new framing (and the flashing details worked out to prevent this from happening again; to learn more about this project, see "Fixing a Poorly Flashed Cupola&quot.Isaias Antonio-SantosNo question. In cases of advanced decay, as on this cupola , there is little question that the rotted structure needs to be completely replaced with new framing (and the flashing details worked out to prevent this from happening again; to learn more about this project, see "Fixing a Poorly Flashed Cupola").
Inevitably, it may make sense to leave some damaged wood in place. For example, floor joists that have rotted at the ends near the sills may be inaccessible to remove. If reinforced with sistered joists and a new rim joist or blocking, the rotted ends can remain.

The ends of the rafters in the photo below is another case in point. As long as no structure depends on the deteriorated wood for support, and the wood is be kept dry, it should be OK. Please note: In this case, "structure" includes loads imposed on the soffit, fascia and eaves area of the roof. From a building performance perspective, and not just a code perspective, the structure we are referring to here includes parts of the building that may fail but might not affect the life and safety of occupants.

Rebuild or replace? Leaving rotted wood in place is often a judgment call. If the leaks above this fascia were solved and the moisture problem eradicated, would you leave these old rafter ends in place? It's a tough decision, but if new outriggers to support the fascia and soffit are put in place, the rotted beam ends could remain without the complete demolition and rebuilding of the eaves. Rebuild or replace? Leaving rotted wood in place is often a judgment call. If the leaks above this fascia were solved and the moisture problem eradicated, would you leave these old rafter ends in place? It's a tough decision, but if new outriggers to support the fascia and soffit are put in place, the rotted beam ends could remain without the complete demolition and rebuilding of the eaves.
Mold on Lumber
As mentioned at the beginning of this article, mold growth on lumber has no structural effect on wood. Unlike rot fungi, mold fungi grow only on the surface of lumber and do not have roots that grow deep between the wood fibers. When you find mold on lumber in the lumberyard or after storing lumber on site (black is most common but it can also appear green, pink, or orange, among other colors), it should be avoided or cleaned off.


Typically, mold on lumber is an indication of high moisture levels in the wood, and the lumber needs to be dried to a moisture content below 22% before using it to frame a wall. (And dry below 19% before closing it in; some folks will even say below 12% before hanging drywall if they are concerned about interior wood joints staying tight.)

A mold stain may remain on the surface of lumber after lumber is dry, and once encased in the wall is unlikely to be a problem … except that it can be. There is limited research that “hidden” mold can increase the amount of mold spores in the indoor air, but mold is one of those hair-trigger issues that is best to avoid if you can. If owners are walking the site and see mold on lumber, it will raise concerns, and concern easily escalates into fear and litigation. To avoid all that, it’s best to not select it at the lumberyard to begin with. If it’s delivered and can’t be returned, or is discovered after it’s on site, it’s best to clean off the mold before building with it.

To clean mold from the surface of lumber, scrub with water and detergent, then rinse and wet vacuum the surface. The individuals doing this work should wear gloves, eye protection, and NIOSH-approved respirators. Do not use bleach. Bleach may help remove the mold stain, but it won’t remove mold spores and is a lung and skin irritant. Using bleach only unnecessarily exposes workers to a hazard. Detergent will do as well to remove the stain, and what will really get rid of the spores is vigorous scrubbing, rinsing, and vacuuming. If the mold is caused by a flood contaminated with black water, use an EPA-registered disinfectant. These tend to have fewer adverse effects on workers than bleach, but you still need to follow safety guidelines for protecting workers.

Got a Comment?
Click here to submit a Letter to the Editor. We value all comments, corrections and questions.
If we think others will benefit, we may publish it in print. Letters should be exclusive to JLC, Professional Deck Builder or Tools of the Trade. We do not publish open letters or third-party letters. Writers of letters selected for publication will be notified. Letters may be edited for clarity and shortened for space.

About the Author
Clayton DeKorneClayton DeKorne
Clay DeKorne is the Chief Editor of the JLC Group, which includes The Journal of Light Construction, Remodeling, Tools of the Trade and Professional Deck Builder. He was the founding editor of Tools of the Trade (1993) and Coastal Contractor (2004), and the founding educational director for JLC Live (1995). Before venturing into writing and education for the building industry, he was a renovation contractor and carpenter in Burlington, Vt.

A Builder's Guide to Wood Rot

What you need to know about what causes rot, the ultimate failure point in a wood-framed house.

www.jlconline.com

 

[Newmisty]

Bernhard HofmannZone-line decay, a.k.a. spalted wood, can be used for trim work as long as the wood is firm and doesn't have pockets that are punky.
Spalting is caused by certain types of white-rot fungi growing in wood (primarily hardwoods such as maple, birch, and beech). The fungi create “zone lines” in the wood where territories of competing fungi meet (see photo at right). Though usually used for decorative woodwork and furniture (live-edge tables and shelves are currently in vogue), spalted wood is occasionally used for interior trim, as well. According to the Forest Products Laboratory, once the wood is harvested, the fungi die and remain in stasis without further growth or compromise to the wood. (It is also possible to actually induce spalting in harvested wood; see the Forest Products Laboratory's technical bulletin "Producing Spalted Wood.")
Not all deteriorated wood is caused by rot, though. Termite damage often looks exactly like "dry rot." And in many cases, the scent of rot may be what drew the termites. But termites usually are a lot quicker than fungi at destroying the structural integrity of a wood structure.

Robert MignognaThings are not always what they seem. Water seeping through brick got things started here, and you can see where the fibrous mat of white rot lingers on the surface of this rim joist. But the ultimate destruction of this framing came from termites. Termites primarily search for food by the scent of wet, rotten wood, so the onset of rot certainly contributed to this structure's demise.

Incipient vs. Advanced Decay​

Early stage decay that has not advanced far enough to soften or otherwise impair the hardness of wood is known as incipient decay. It is usually accompanied by a slight discoloration of the wood, and the big question that carpenters often face when working on existing structures is whether it is OK to build onto slightly decayed framing. As long as the wood is solid and is kept dry, wood that is slightly discolored by decay fungus is OK to leave in place. Before sistering new framing to the old wood, treat the existing lumber with liberal doses of a copper-based wood preservative, such as QNap, or spray with a borate-based preservative, such as Bora-Care.
Wood in an advanced stage of decay, in which the attack has caused the wood fibers to become friable or has split the wood into sections, is essentially worthless. As much of this destroyed wood as possible should be replaced.

Isaias Antonio-SantosNo question. In cases of advanced decay, as on this cupola , there is little question that the rotted structure needs to be completely replaced with new framing (and the flashing details worked out to prevent this from happening again; to learn more about this project, see "Fixing a Poorly Flashed Cupola").
Inevitably, it may make sense to leave some damaged wood in place. For example, floor joists that have rotted at the ends near the sills may be inaccessible to remove. If reinforced with sistered joists and a new rim joist or blocking, the rotted ends can remain.
The ends of the rafters in the photo below is another case in point. As long as no structure depends on the deteriorated wood for support, and the wood is be kept dry, it should be OK. Please note: In this case, "structure" includes loads imposed on the soffit, fascia and eaves area of the roof. From a building performance perspective, and not just a code perspective, the structure we are referring to here includes parts of the building that may fail but might not affect the life and safety of occupants.

Rebuild or replace? Leaving rotted wood in place is often a judgment call. If the leaks above this fascia were solved and the moisture problem eradicated, would you leave these old rafter ends in place? It's a tough decision, but if new outriggers to support the fascia and soffit are put in place, the rotted beam ends could remain without the complete demolition and rebuilding of the eaves.

Mold on Lumber​

As mentioned at the beginning of this article, mold growth on lumber has no structural effect on wood. Unlike rot fungi, mold fungi grow only on the surface of lumber and do not have roots that grow deep between the wood fibers. When you find mold on lumber in the lumberyard or after storing lumber on site (black is most common but it can also appear green, pink, or orange, among other colors), it should be avoided or cleaned off.

Typically, mold on lumber is an indication of high moisture levels in the wood, and the lumber needs to be dried to a moisture content below 22% before using it to frame a wall. (And dry below 19% before closing it in; some folks will even say below 12% before hanging drywall if they are concerned about interior wood joints staying tight.)
A mold stain may remain on the surface of lumber after lumber is dry, and once encased in the wall is unlikely to be a problem … except that it can be. There is limited research that “hidden” mold can increase the amount of mold spores in the indoor air, but mold is one of those hair-trigger issues that is best to avoid if you can. If owners are walking the site and see mold on lumber, it will raise concerns, and concern easily escalates into fear and litigation. To avoid all that, it’s best to not select it at the lumberyard to begin with. If it’s delivered and can’t be returned, or is discovered after it’s on site, it’s best to clean off the mold before building with it.
To clean mold from the surface of lumber, scrub with water and detergent, then rinse and wet vacuum the surface. The individuals doing this work should wear gloves, eye protection, and NIOSH-approved respirators. Do not use bleach. Bleach may help remove the mold stain, but it won’t remove mold spores and is a lung and skin irritant. Using bleach only unnecessarily exposes workers to a hazard. Detergent will do as well to remove the stain, and what will really get rid of the spores is vigorous scrubbing, rinsing, and vacuuming. If the mold is caused by a flood contaminated with black water, use an EPA-registered disinfectant. These tend to have fewer adverse effects on workers than bleach, but you still need to follow safety guidelines for protecting workers.

Got a Comment?​

Click here to submit a Letter to the Editor. We value all comments, corrections and questions.
If we think others will benefit, we may publish it in print. Letters should be exclusive to JLC, Professional Deck Builder or Tools of the Trade. We do not publish open letters or third-party letters. Writers of letters selected for publication will be notified. Letters may be edited for clarity and shortened for space.

A Builder's Guide to Wood Rot

What you need to know about what causes rot, the ultimate failure point in a wood-framed house.

www.jlconline.com

 

[Newmisty]

Made spinner stands yesterday

Today repairing stairs

 

[Newmisty]

Here's the finished entertainment center

 

[nickndfl]

We just finished another renovation on the beach 2 x 2/2s. We do not take credit for the full renos but did the last 20% of the complete gut and fixed all the screw ups of the previous subs to pass inspection by the local building department.

Wife unit decorated and rents out each side for $250-$350/night.

 

[Newmisty]

We just finished another renovation on the beach 2 x 2/2s. We do not take credit for the full renos but did the last 20% of the complete gut and fixed all the screw ups of the previous subs to pass inspection by the local building department.

Wife unit decorated and rents out each side for $250-$350/night.

I'm jealous. What kinda stuff needed to be tweaked to pass inspection.

 

[nickndfl]

Electrical and plumbing primarily. Then she did all the wall and room decorations. Then our first guest reported that the ac was not working correctly. Tuns out the gypsy ac installer crossed 2/3 thermostats in one unit. New stupid code required 3 thermostats/zones for 1000 sq ft. Totally stupid and the cause of the problem.

Then there are incidental outlet malfunctions and other surprises. The owner did not install garbage disposals in the sinks or ice makers in the fridges. We carried him over the goal line and got him into the black.

 

[nickndfl]

You come home the air conditioning is off and thermostat DOA. What has happened is the drain line is clogged and the auto shut down is activated by the float valve to the right to prevent flooding.

Only way to unclog an A/C drain line that gunks up with slime, mildew or critters.

PVC hose adapter glued to 1" pipe.

*Adapter is not glued to the system. It simply pulls out and the normal access plug is pressed in.

 

[Ttazzman]

You come home the air conditioning is off and thermostat DOA. What has happened is the drain line is clogged and the auto shut down is activated by the float valve to the right to prevent flooding.

Only way to unclog an A/C drain line that gunks up with slime, mildew or critters.

PVC hose adapter glued to 1" pipe.

*Adapter is not glued to the system. It simply pulls out and the normal access plug is pressed in.

View attachment 7731

I try to hit my condensate lines with a shop vacuum at least once a year....yep condensate pans that plug n fill will shut a system down...one of those things to do regularly

 

[nickndfl]

I spray the coils with Simple Green annually, but everything still slimes up. One time I had a dead lizard plugging up the line and you cannot screen the end drain because it will slow down water flow and eventually stop up.

 

[Ttazzman]

I spray the coils with Simple Green annually, but everything still slimes up. One time I had a dead lizard plugging up the line and you cannot screen the end drain because it will slow down water flow and eventually stop up.

i dont worry about my coils i change filters regularly usually 3 to 4 times a year so coils stay clean......most hvac systems will have some form of trap in the condensate drain line or pan and that is where slime jelling seems to start ...pouring hot water down the line is a way to clear it.....i have heard that chlorine will help also but i dont like chlorine due to its corrosive properties around aluminum...sometimes it is very inconvenient to access the unit side of the condensate pan and line to do hot water etc.........so the best way for me is to shop vac the line from where it ultimately terminates ....if you dont get fluid or slime in your shop vac some hvac condensate lines will have a air gap so you have to work from that point or from the unit but most the "air gap" is at the termination point IE where it is open at a floor drain or where it attaches to a plumbing vent stack

if your getting dirty coils you need to rethink your filtration......beware of high MERV rated filters too as they can slow the air flow accross the coils causing excessive moisture and mold growth and clog easily......i prefer washable filters that are relatively free flowing and cleaning them often .....i will also protect the system by putting high flow filters in the return grills and also have the filter at the unit

just tossin some info out there for thought ....everyone does there own thing

the high AC loads in FL probably require more maintenance that we do here also